shadetree

for future reference, NEVER, EVER...TAKE A SELLERS WORD ON WHAT HE/SHE CLAIMS TO HAVE !..LOL. you must know, do your home work when it comes to know what you are working on. with 30+ yrs under my belt on '' most '' honda atv's, atc's, i know what to look for in models.

i would pull the shift motor, hook to a good battery, see if it spins ?. if it does not ?, then the motor is bad. very common on the es models. also check to see if the battery is fully charged ?, they will not shift if battery is weak. last but not least, angle sensor could be bad again.

yep, alum, you can't weld anything to it. impact driver with a socket ?, or a hammer an chisel to force it loose.

a good impact hammer driver tool is a life saver in times like these. is this the main oil drain bolt ?, if it is ?, this is normally a 17mm, not a 12mm. if it is not this bolt ?, then this means the bolt head you are trying to remove is not steel, it is pot metal alum, you can not weld anything to it. a pic is priceless for us to see what you are faced with.

this is an auto, chances are, the transmission is toast, they are a money pit, you can not ( us mostly ) can not replace any parts on them, as they are non-serviceable.

brutal here in arkansas last night, froze every pipe at my cabin. no water until maybe weds ?. spent most of the day down there today, did not get water moving. wont be able to until maybe weds ?. for the record, it got to 3 here last night, i've never seen ( that i recall ? ) temps in arkansas EVER getting this cold in all my yrs living here.

all i have is old yellow plastics, minus the side pull start cover ( new oem ), front fender has hole, also PO thought it was a good idea to burn their initials into it ?!. will not ship them. if yer near by ?, and want them ?, you are welcome to them for free.

ya'll be safe tonight if ya live in the south ?, temps are very low !. shows 9 here in arkansas, low will be 3 !!!. pipes froze at my cabin ( gotta deal with that friday ), sooo..be careful out there ya'll !.

my golden rule is, its a first come..first served !. UNLESS !!...like fish said ^^^..they are driving a long ways to make the purchase ?, other than this..first come..first served. i myself have driven many miles to make a purchase, i would hope and pray they hold to agreement ?..i thank my lucky stars to this day, not one of them have let me down. bottom line: its a 50/50 gamble in these times...you win...or you lose.

bad sealing washers is where most leak.

was gonna say..they are on-to us !..lol.

follow my phone convo, and i bet it will be fixed..lol.

flip the outer disk around, you have it on backwards.

you are either not working the bleeding right ?, or you still have air trapped in the lines ?. been doing brakes on atv's for 30 yrs, never ran across one to beat me yet !.

can you tell which cam chain in this pic is bad ? -->

haha..i was thinking the very same thing !. missed both times..maybe he shoulda had a beretta instead of a glock ?..hmmm.

lousy shot for sure !..lol.

ok, it seems honda just made them do different things..lol. i leave mine all stock for the most part.

do you have a source for cables ?, what about any parts for these ?. i used to know where a couple of these were, one for sure still on atv, pretty sure the cable is frozen. the other one was in pieces if my memory serves me correct ?. i think if i could round the parts one up, send it to you, let you rebuild it, pay you some rebuild cash, i could make a good profit from at least one of them. the full one just needs a cable, as i know very well, this is why warn stopped making them.

please note: not all 450's operate the same as far as the light switch goes to turn the lights on, and low/high beam work different as far as the lower lights, and pod light. '02-'04 all lights come on at once, in other words, you can not turn the lowers on, without the upper pod light on. '98-'01, it seems the lights work different, lowers work on low/high beam, and the upper pod light can be turned off and on from what i've discovered. please make sure you check this out before you go tossing light bulbs on it !.

getting the rear drive shaft out is a lot of work, just man-handle it up on the trailer. got a come-along ?, block and tackle and some rope ?.unhook the trailer from your truck/car, block the wheels on trailer, tie a chain or rope to the front, drag it up on the trailer with your truck/car. there is always more than one way to skin a cat..lol.

get the flywheel off, inspect the one-way bearing. also, DO NOT USE ANY CHEAP KNOCK-OFF STATOR FROM EBAY !, THEY ARE CHINA MADE...NOT WORTH THE TROUBLE. hit fish up on his offer, i'd toss used oem in that engine b4 i used a china part all day long. i do not have a spare stator laying around ?, or i'd let you have it.

replace the cam chain !. now is the time to do this while the engine is on the bench. i only use oem or D.I.D. cam chains, fairly cheap on ebay. they run about 40 something bucks, worth every dime.

to add to fish's list of stator's ^^, the trx400fm also has the very same stator if my memory serve's me right ?. just not sure if they will swap out for the es model's ?, i do not work on es models much at all.

now this is a t-shirt i need hanging in my closet !..lol.