Leaderboard

This is brutal cold. Vehicles at work won’t start, any skin will get frostbite real quick. The wind is worse than it shows. It’s COLD!

Yeah i would put it back on. For your own sanity and all the people around you! LoL

Check my youtube channel out! I have go pro footage.

No problem bud! Always glad to help!

Last but not least spray this on both of the gaskets. Do it on both sides. It will stop the seeping oil entirely. I use it on all my gaskets and non ever leaked again. The credit for this next part goes to @TRX2FiveO. When you reach to 38 ft lbs of torque. Walk away for about 15 minutes or so. Come back and hit it again at 38. The metals will have flexed and you normally get another 1/8th turn or so on some of them.

Boy that is good news I really wonder what that fuse goes to now and why it was there

Thank you, I unplugged the fuse and it started shifting again. I will trace the connections and get rid of it

Be sure when you change the head gasket you torque it properly! Use 3 steps going up to 38 ft lbs. In a criss cross pattern! Hopefully you went with a multi layer steel gasket. Like cometic or oem honda. The valve cover needs to be metal on these engines! It can and will ruin the cam and head eventually if you use anything else. As that gasket serves two purposes. A spacer and gasket. Without the proper space its too tight on the cam journals for proper oiling. Dont sweat the black smoke in the winter. Wait for the temp to go up and see if it continues. Then worry about it if it does. Obveously within reason with this. If its a cloud of black smoke thats a different story entirely. But alittle puff here and there isnt anything to worry about for now.

The valve cover gasket could be allowing oil to seep through the header flange into the exhaust. That would explain your white smoke. But black smoke is the engine burning too much fuel! Nothing else causes black smoke. But if its cold where you are alittle black smoke in the winter is normal as the mixture and jetting wont be 100% correct. Unless of course you jet specifically for cold weather riding.

Just to follow up, I got the new carb put on the Rubi over the weekend and there was one difference I found on the -013 carb. The fuel inlet valve was a slightly smaller diameter than the one on the -A01 carb that came off. Nothing that tightening a small hose clamp around the fuel line and inlet valve didn’t fix...just throwing that out there for anyone that runs into a similar situation. Ironically enough, it went into limp mode just before putting the new carb on and was giving a code for a tps sensor...the new carb came with a new sensor on it thankfully. Put everything back together, reset the ECM and the Rubi idles and runs like brand new now.

50 degrees here, and rain, same forcast for tomorrow .... I'll take that over those temps you have up there, wheeler. that mind of cold will sure find a weak battery.

Thanks for the details your voltage regulator looks like it’s operating properly so that’s definitely not the issue although I would expect it to be higher at 1/4 rev than at idle? Is it still not shifting properly with a fully charged battery at this time? Keep in mind what retro said about above excessive draw using a cheap China shift motor It would be a shame and expensive to burn up the ECM If it’s possible, see if you can measure the draw when using the shift motor

Wheeler -- That is cold for sure -- we had heat wave here this morning -10 feels like -19 with the wind

By the time the meat got to 165 degrees , it was blackened bird , but delicious , very juicy and flavorful --- the caucus with meat scrapes was boiled to make some okra/smoked turkey gumbo for today

I been collecting beer tap pulls when I see nice ones , mounting them on bells for display , I just put this one together , turned it into a bell and added a Navy Eagle to it --- I am not even sure what type of beer it was , it had the dome of the Congress building on top , replaced it with a ferrel ( is that the correct word ) off a lamp

I had one awhile back that had a bad voltage regulator and once the battery voltage dropped to certain level it would still run great -just stopped shifting I checked battery voltages when ATV was off and when it was running and voltage regulator was not working. I put new one in and it has shifted great ever since. These ES machines like to have good batteries and voltage regulators for sure

I finished the install for my winch today. I won't keep the hook on the end, and I'll snug up the bobber-stopper a bit. Also, I'm going to replace the fairlead in a few weeks.

If I remember right I didn't cover the power supply and relays box build for this gizmo, so I'm gonna build one from scratch using parts already explained & linked to Mouser earlier. I am going to wire the 40 amp relay like I normally do, so this PS/Relays build will supply the ground for the fan motor, rather than the positive supply like I did with Fishfiles build. Once finished, this PS/Relays box will be included with the next gizmo that gets built. So the next one is just begun... while this one for Fishfiles is getting a reboot. Here are the parts I will be using to make this box: And this is how I intend to end up, minus the fat red cable:

I got my super xl running today. God what a sweet saw. Love these vintage saws for messing around with. enjoy the video!

Went for a spin on the bike today, beaver dams have about a foot of ice now so I can go and get the trees from the middle, dry as a bone bark fallen off, gives amazing heat, from standing to the stove in under an hour.....

Dont let age or experiance scare you bud! Its all about having fun! Nothing more nothing less. Just know that it is dangerous. And the person next to you may be more willing to hurt themselves or you to win! Some people are wired that way. And you will never know if you are until you try it. I cant honestly explain the feeling i get when ripping around a track. Its so calm and out of control yet still somehow in control. Racing/riding has tried to take my life a few times. But i love it and will never quit riding.

Oh yeah buddy! Its a blast! But my 30 year old body doesnt bounce like it did when i was 13 lol. I actually got my oma license last year planned to hit a few races. Nothing ever came of it. Didnt have time and with covid screwing everything up it ended up being a 50 dollar donation. Kinda sucks cuz im figuring that was kinda my last year to make an attempt at racing. I'll just stick to the fair race if the county fairs ever re-open.

Well I might end up buying it from them only because it's so cheap, unless I can find a parts bike somewhere around me. Which I've been waiting to do anyway just to have spare stuff. But they even have a discount code for 8% off and it comes to 275 before shipping but I thought about emailing them and seeing if they would discount it further and I could do an honest review of the product for them since I can't find any reviews

That looks like so much fun

Yes it's this one. I'm thinking about grabbing one

I've never even seen a 4wheeler race before lol

Not as much as i would like too! I raced alot more when i was younger. But i have on my youtube channel the last few fair races i have done. The track is garbage but its a race right in my town at the county fair.

Yea I think they are relatively new brand because I've never seen them before. It seems like a decent exhaust, but who knows I might have to be the one who experiment with it. That's awesome you've gotten sponsored by them, do you race? I'm still trying to do the youtube thing

Never heard of them. I run hmf as they are local to me and sponsor my quad. I will have to look at it. Not often someone brings up something i have never heard of for a 400ex lol.

I would run with the cover on! Do you have baffles to increase or decrease the power and?

Spark arrestor screen? So just the mesh screen in the end of the pipe? If thats what you are talking about yes. It will flow better and will be louder. I noticed when mine blew out. Throttle response was alittle more crisp and there was a small power increase.

Why did u go up to a 155 then 152 from 148? Did u add an exhaust or remove the air box lid ect?

glad to help, yeah, I'd like to know too. that's a strange one. glad it's back shifting again, this is what burns me about people hacking into the wire harness , and not knowing what there doing!!!

that's not oem ... must be something the PO added, i would check see where the wires tap in to oem wire harness.

I agree with AKATV, your charging system is working fine and your battery is probably OK too. I would look for a bad connection again beginning with the motor fuse. Then check the shift switches & plug in case those are not working. Then open and close harness plugs one at a time (beginning with the ECM connector) looking for one that may be unreliable. This shift issue seems to be repeating intermittently and since the first go 'round left ya wondering what was the cause, may have to yank the fenders off again. Measure shift motor amps draw at the shift motor fuse socket once ya find the fault.

Wow, that's cold! I spent a full six months near Fairbanks while in the Military, and it was also cold, so I feel your pain! I camp during the Winter around me, but I don't know if I'd go out in that or not!

Sorry wheeler... i had to laugh hehe.. I have a sister in Calgary (since 79) & she always used to try & get me to move out there, no way! Been there 2 times in the past 20ish years (March & February) & Both times it was cold & snowing almost every day 😮 QuadJunkie i mustve missed where you are? 🤔

Seen this bike at the flea market yesterday , if it would have been a adult bike , I might have been into motorizing it , love them tires and rims

I like your optimism, because the carb is the easiest and cheap fix lol.. I’ll pull it again.. anything in particular you want to see? I’ll check the stuff again.

The proto board gotta be made first, so I dropped it into the slot that the end of the enclosure provides and marked the board where I needed to cut it. The edge of the cut off board must stick up about 3/32" above the top of the enclosure so it can be captured firmly (don't want it flopping around inside the box once completed) once the lid is put on it. After cutting the board it got flipped over (the row of solder pads on this board won't be used, so that waste edge will be inserted into the lid) and the upper edge was notched on both ends with the hacksaw for board clearance necessary for fitting the lid on the box. Then the rough edges from the saw cuts were filed off smooth. Test fitted in the slot... the lid fit down good and the board did not rattle. Next the components were prepared and laid out on the board so that spaces along the top and the bottom edges of the board remained for soldering wiring connection headers onto it. This mock up was necessary because there is no extra space on the board that would allow me to make a part placement mistake. Once the wires are soldered onto this board it will appear to be crowded. This step is optional... I cut a small heatsink out of a .010" thick brass shim sheet then bent it to fit the VR and will solder it onto the board, then solder the voltage regulator down onto the brass to provide additional heat sinking capacity. The heatsink is optional here because the voltage regulator chip will only be running at about 12% of its max load handling rating... so if I just solder the VR onto the board it would be fine. But since I can.... I'm gonna. Be back later to solder & hookup wire it all together, into a compact (& cheap!) working unit.

Nope. The carb needs to be gone through from scratch. That means a complete disassembly and inspection is in order. Look for a broken off pilot screw tip jammed in the casting, worn or damaged parts and clogged passages. Then the casting will need a thorough soaking & scrubbing inside & out with a strong solvent like Berrymans Chem-dip. Then reassemble exactly to OEM specs listed in the service manual using either OEM gaskets or a Shindy kit. The choke valve should be replaced along with the primer assembly (OEM parts only) as well. Ain't no shortcuts when it comes to carbs, ya gotta be incredibly thorough and persistent. Even highly experienced rebuilders get burned every once in a while.... odds are you will too. :-)

no not really, (its good exercise) I've been hand splitting since i was 15 years old (off and on) the worst to mual / wedge split, has to be elm, or bodark. (locust) ....i use this fiskars axe now (pic) how do you split yours ?

Injected and rubbed the turkey and got it on the smoker , threw in some chunks of mesquite wood to start it off ----- going to try something and don't know how it is going to work out , I got a bag of mesquite pellets , have a electric smoker , on the bottom is a heating rod on top of some lava rock looking rocks , think by throwing in the pellets it will burn and give the smoke ---- the time has me wondering , one video says 3 hours for 13 pound burc the other says 6 hours , I am sure it all depends on your smoker ----- I am about to head over to Academy and see if they have a wireless thermometer with a remote monitor

30 out this am and had a heavy duty fog, odd for this time of year.

I got all of the gizmo supplies back out today. I have my work area all set up too, so I am ready to begin a fahrenheit gizmo build. I will probably get going on it on Saturday, as tomorrow I will be busy with snow removal chores.

One thing is for certain, you’ll never know what you’re going to find until you open it up. Mine quad worked in every gear but first but I also had all the splines wore of the primary drive as well as a few teeth in the first gear. Lots of shrapnel means lots of cleaning. be prepared to take it all apart and thoroughly clean all the bearings and each part meticulously. Don’t forget to flush the oil cooler and make sure you don’t have a stripped oil plug while you have it all apart. don’t be afraid to take pictures and ask question. You’re not the first to rip this engine down on this site. good luck and keep us posted.