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I can relate. When I was working out it North Dakota we had a stretch of cold, -64 abient temperature, with wind, -103, not an experience I'd like to have any time soon. We are currently 36 high of 43 today, time for lawn chairs and lemonade.

Had a friend over last weekend , he was having problems with his 500 , when it comes to atvs , I don't usually work on anything that ain't mine , he left it here , so I cleaned the carb ( what is that electric gizmo / harness for that is on top the carb in the pic ) ---then I found the mouse damage , repaired about 8 wires and have a new spark plug boot ordered for him , the bike could never have gone in water , the mouse ( or whatever it was ) ate cean thru to the metal ( you can't see it too good in that pic ) getting the carb off a 2007 TRX500FM7 is harder to change than a 300 or 450 Honda of Slidell wants $32 for a boot and spark plug , the boot is $26 , I tried to match it up for him , but nothing I had was the same

i made a bearing locknut removal tool for $9. steering on my 86 TRX350 quad was a little sloppy so following @shadetree advice i bought a new steering shaft bushing, bearing and seals. couldn’t buy or find the 07GMA-HA70200 steering shaft bearing lock nut removal tool. So i hope to make this easily searchable so others can do their steering shafts. Used a 7/8” x 3” grade-8 bolt and a 7/8-9 castellated nut to make a shop-built lock nut removal tool. I used the castellated nut as the mating piece for the bearing locknut. $8.26 total. The SAE castellated nut was just a bit larger than the ~25mm hex pattern of the locknut. I didn’t buy metric because the hardware store didn’t have any large metric nuts and bolts—plus i only had large SAE wrenches. I’m sure one could use a metric bolt and nut to make a similar tool, without filing—but would have to have a large metric socket. So i used a flat bas-tard file across all the castellated nut faces—at least 150 to 200 strokes each—til it fit into the lock nut. I marked every flat with a marker to make sure i got every flat an equal number of strokes. I rolled the nut over every cycle to ensure a flat grind on each face. And remarked. i used a large stake point chisel and 32 ounce ball-peen hammer to stake each notch section against the bolt. I would’ve preferred to weld them but this worked. i used two 4x4 and four wood clamps to make a vice, then used a large socket to support the steering shaft stay. A 1 3/8” socket with a 3/4 inch drive breaker bar was used on the shop tool to loosen the lock nut, which is secured by red thread locker. i drove the old bearing out with a 1 inch brass drift and put new bearing in with a very large wooden dowel. I used the tool to reinstall the locknut (red threadlocker) and torqued to minimum 37 inch pounds. My steering did tighten up. Not completely BUT now when i turn the bars, the front wheels move without lag. Time to test ride!!

Great write up Goober!

BTW the service manual says to remove the swing arm—no you do not. i unbolted the dash and laid it on the airbox; then unbolted the handlebars and headlight bracket and laid them forward. After I unbolted the steering shaft, i used a picklefork to easily pry the steering pivot assembly from the shaft. The shaft pulled right up and out. i then slid the old bushing off; greased the new one and slipped it on. Then I unbolted the steering shaft stay (with the bearing). It only goes on one way. Such an easy job.

That would be just the ticket for Mole Crabs.

Power sports nation has a coil with spark plug wire and boot for $20 shipped Yeah getting a carb off of a 500 is a lot more trouble than the 300s and 450s. So is snorkeling one

Don't feel sorry for him hope he gets what he deserves.

I got you some ,Sympathy for the Devil by the Rolling Stones over in the music thread. We got 34 here this A.M. going up to 60 for a high today. We boiling some shrimp that is coming from over your way from Bayou LaBatture. They are usually excellent. They freeze them in water. No IQF b.s.

Just installed my repaired display for my 98 Foreman 450ES, AKATV did an awesome job, SUPER fast turn around and great communication the whole way. I can now see that I can't shift into a 6th gear!

This thread is pinned to the top as a sticky! Thanks for the excellent how-to @Goober!

I have several cold weather outfits, the most used one is a 20 year old Carhart one piece with the black arctic weight liner. ‘Reason it lasted so long is it is only comfortable below 30 degrees and I lived in TN for a while. Problem I have is it is not waterproof, if I’m plowing while it is still snowing, the snow melts and it gets wet and cold after an hour or two. So I broke down a couple days ago and bought a Choko snowmobile jacket and bib pants. It’s light and comfortable in subzero weather. It is way too warm for temps above freezing. My boots are Baffin’s and they are incredibly warm and comfortable. 6+ hours in sub zero weather and feet are toasty warm. Beats the heck out of my old Sorels. The biggest recommendation I have is a good balaclava that covers face, neck and upper chest. Without one, I can last an hour or two in subzero weather. The better ones are found in motorcycle and snowmobile establishments. ‘One can last all day dressed properly. They are predicting -60F windchill over the weekend. Anxious to see how the new gear works out.

Me and the wife went snow skiing in Crested Butte one morning when the temps. were 30 below. Wind chills 70 below. We bought extra gear and went skiing. I almost got frost bite in my fingers.

Ponder this if you will Chances are 'Fair to Midland " this is lady below is going to be somebody's Grandma one day !!!

Got to due some snow plowing over the weekend. 2002 Honda Rancher 350 and John Deere 1032 snowblower on lowboy trailer that I pull behind the ATV when I need to take snow blower to other driveways. First time using the John Deere in 2 years and started on the 3rd pull. I have back up Electric start on it if needed.