shadetree

i understand if you have the ''know how '' ?, and have the spare parts ?, but in my case ?, i find it easier just to drop a brand new meter in place..lol. finding good meters is bad enough, finding one that isn't already burnt is another !..lol. no, your not stepping on my toes, i know what you can do, and its cool that you can do it, and save members money, i'm deff not trying to take bizz away from ya ! :-).

and yes, i always buy 10 gallons when i go buy it, it last me a good year before i change it out. KEEP THE STEEL DRUMS !!, i use mine to pour used engine oil in, then take it to recycle centers.

i'm impressed bro !, well done !!, i think yu'll like that parts washer alot !!. dont worry to much about the fluid, it wont burn you like acid..lol, i dont wear gloves at all, but i'm used to it, been using this stuff for years now, i even told jeep what to use in his parts washer, i guess he too likes it ?..lol.

pins in first, smallest end facing up, the flat part that slides down on the pins, the tail of this should point to the right when facing the cup, then line up the cup as you see in these pics i am posting, the cup has holes in the bottom, they sit down on top of the small ends of the pins sticking through the plate with the tail facing to the right. then the reverse lever as you see in the pic has the long end sitting under the plate tail. AND WHY AREN'T YOU READING THIS INFO FROM YOUR SERVICE MANUAL ?????..LOL.

it does not need to be in any certain gear when taking apart, or going back together, what you must make sure of , is getting all 3 shift forks in the right spot ?, and the tangs on the shift forks in the correct grooves on the shift drum ?. the shift forks have letters on them, they must face up when installing them !. and they must be in the correct spot on the shift drum, service manual shows you this. another word of caution !!: that cup and part that bolts to the shift drum has those two small pins that i warned you not to lose ?, all of these parts must go back on the end of the shift drum facing the correct direction !.

yep, and i remember you as well !. for some reason or another ?, most members here can't keep me away !!..rofl.

here's the deal...IT WILL GET WORSE !..LOL. sooner or later, that blob will grow larger, i'll bank on it !. bite the bullet, buy a new screen, problem solved.

you have to replace the whole meter/display, there is nothing inside or under the plastic cover that can be swapped out, its the LCD screen, when they go bad ?, it time for a new meter/display.

i'm gonna toss in my .02's worth, and you can take it for what its worth. do not do anything to it, do your home work, research who the owners are/were ?, and try to find out who it belongs to ?, if this means going to your local police station with it, and have them check/run the vin number ?, then by all means...DO THIS !. you dont want to be holding a piece of property that belongs to some one that has had their atv stolen !!!. if your local police station finds out its been reported stolen ?, then by all means..HAND IT OVER TO THEM WITHOUT ANY QUESTIONS !!!. give the names of who you got it from, how you got it, and walk away !. do as you wish ?, but in my eyes..it does not belong to you legally...yet ?!.

as far as i know ?, all trx500fm had silver front bumpers on the early manual shift models.

you splitting the cases ?, before they come apart, you need to remove the cup off the end of the shift drum. DONT FORGET TO LAY THE ENGINE DOWN WITH THE OUTPUT SHAFT ON THE BOTTOM !.

tell him 1k cash, i bet he bites !..lol.

from the looks of those large tires ?, i can see why the drive line is DAO !..LOL. i bought a '05 trx500fm a couple years back, motor was dead, all the drive line was dead, pretty much dead all together. paid 600.00 for it, restored it all back to factory new parts ( cept tires, went with stock size, itp mudlite AT's ), had about 2800 into it , start to finish, sold it to my mail man for 3k cash.

ok, got some tear down pic's !. 4wd frame rolled in shop, motor pulled, split, parts everywhere !..lol.

if you dont locate one ?, pretty sure i've got some spares..lol.

woke up at 1:00 am, decided to go to work, rolled '97 trx300fw out of shop, wheel borrowed the 2wd into shop, tore top end down, rod seemed to be ok !!. pulled the motor, got the motor torn all the way down, crank is out. if and when i get a chance ? ( weather is bad right now ), i'll get thw 4wd frame back in my shop, pull that motor, split it, and hopefully start to get it back together in a few days.

just came in from the shop, tore the top end down, just as i thought, rod/crank is bad !. what is very odd though, is the wrist pin is worn in the middle, top middle of rod is worn, has slack sideways at bottom of rod, a tad of up and down play at bottom of rod, now the odd part..the rings are shot, will dang near fall through the cylinder, piston is a tight fit, but top of piston and head was very black, but when i ran it, it did not smoke at all ???. never seen anything like this all my years of doing this !. and not one deep scratch in the piston skirt, or cylinder ?, ya'll figure that one out !.

welcome to our forums !.

well crap, i spent the whole day changing out the cam chain, rebuilt the carb, get it running, ONLY TO FIND OUT ( WHAT I BELIEVE ANYWAY ? ) is a bad crank ?, either the top or bottom is worn out ?, not sure ?, i thought it was another messed up change clutch install by me ?, nope, swapped out both clutches, still making an odd sound !. as you can see in the following pics, i took pics of the clutch side going back together, step by step, left no stone uncovered !, enjoy the atv pic porn, cuz now i've got to rip it all back apart, and investigate this stupid sound my ears are hearing !!!. sigh. i've got this 2wd motor donor trx300 still in the frame, no clue on the crank shape ?, but before i tear this '97 4wd motor out, split it, i'm going to start by tearing the top end down, and have a peek at the rod, see how bad if at all ?, it is ?. if it is the crank, then i will pull the motor ( after i drain the oil of course ! ), split it, set those motor parts off to the side, roll this frame out, '' some how '', get whats left of this 2wd trx300 in the shop, so i can pull the top end down, have a peek at the crank/rod shape ?, and see if its worth tearing all the way down to rob the crank, and put it in this 4wd frame. i've got my work cut out for me.

that little white thinggy in the tank is the fuel filter.

worked on the front brakes today/tonight, just came in, tired as all get out. just a heads up in case anyone is interested in knowing/learning ?, the front drum brakes i removed from my '03 trx450fm, and put disk brake kit on it, saved the drum brake parts, well i found out today/tonight, '03 trx450fm front brake parts are a direct bolt on to a '97 trx300fw !. here's some tear down pics, then the finished pics of my '03 trx450fm front brake parts installed on this '97 trx300fw. the front right brake drum, backing plate and both wheel cylinders were DOA when i removed the front right wheel. got the hub off, and not even 1 brake shoe was in the backing plate !, lol. p.s. notice the frame/engine is a tad cleaner ?, :-).

i trick i learned on a 2 cylinder lawn tractor i had years ago, muffler was shot, it was 2 cylinders into one muffler. i went to tractor supply, bought two reg old timer lawn mower straight mufflers, some gavl pipe adapter fittings, screwed them to the mufflers, then single screwed the mufflers into each separate cylinder, tim allen special !, looked pretty dang cool, rofl.

was doing some reading on this rear brake set-up, seems this is the down fall of this rear brake. the arm wont return, not enough spring to force it back into neutral position, others have also told super atv to make a spring bracket of some sort to return the arm.

it musta been down hill coming back home ?..rofl.

got the rear end all back together, rolled it out of my shop, power washed it down, rolled it back in the shop. got the dash changed out, right ignition switch !, better wiring harness, pulled front wheels off, need to start working on front brakes next. i'm saving the new cam chain job for later...lol.