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Jim Bod / Liberty Customs is @ $429 , that is $40 cheaper than that other guy ^ @ $469 .....

To anyone on Facebook I see Jim Bod is selling the torq lockers now, liberty customs I think is his shop.

I was replacing a front output shaft seal on a customer machine so I thought I would take a few pics of the process since it's a pretty common issue. I'm hoping everyone keeps their machines cleaner than this one. First thing to do is jack up the front of the machine and remove the front wheels. Then remove the mounting bolts on the front final drive so it can be slid forward. This model has the upper mount that also has to be removed to get enough clearance. You'll have the upper, rear lower and on certain models front mounting bolts and brackets. Once that is done you can slide the front final drive forward. Most of the time you can just grab both inner axles and pull it forward. You might have to position the handlebars just right so the tie rod ends clear and also use a pry bar to give it that little extra to get the drive line loose. Once it's forward enough the coupler on the motor side is spring loaded. Slide it forward enough to unhook it from the output shaft and move it to the side or remove it completely. Remove the o ring from the shaft and use a pick, old screwdriver, screws or whatever you have to pry the old seal out. . Once it's removed and everything is cleaned up it's time for the new seal (found under the final shaft section of a parts finder). I have some shrink tubing that I use to protect the seal from the grooves in the shaft when installing it. You don't have to use anything or wrap it with the plastic the seal came in just to take the chance of damaging it away. Find a socket/pipe the size of the outer edge of the seal to use as a driver (you can also use the old seal against the new when installing it to add a level of protection, unless it's really damaged from prying it out). Once the new seal it in install the o ring on the output shaft and reinstall everything in reverse order.

New site looks great, Retro! Thank you for all your hard work!

Awesome! Need some competition to drive the price down!

She’s running!!! I’ll keep everyone posted on my progress.

!... Old mans beard is what we call the green stuff that grows/hangs off the trees. Its better than gasoline to light a fire with!!!!!!!! I've had a lot of issues with my output shaft seal. Replaced it twice, (once I thought it wasn't in far enough) but still to no real avail. Only difference is I have a Wide Open Kick out installed. When I pull my motor this winter, I'll have a better look at everything. I could NEVER have a machine dirty like that! I ride hard, play hard & wash it hard before I put it in the garage!!!!!!!!!

Some of my back yard. Temps are dropping and the wind is picking up.

Yep and Jim is a straight up guy as far as I know. I’d do business with him.

That’s why they recommend a mile interval AND and hour interval whatever comes first.

Maybe we should start a new thread about the wonders of the boreal forest instead of hijacking this thread hahaha

Welcome Duck, new home for the Honda group...

Welcome Duck good to see ya!

Probably not very rugged terrain there? Mine didn't last very long in the tough stuff I ride on. The rears held up a little bit better than the fronts, but still wore too fast to suit me... the ride was cushy soft I remember liking that.... but one front ended up with three plugs in it and the other front had one plug in it when I finally dumped them. Never again... Dirt Devils are cheaper than Mudlites too. If I were in mud all the time the Dirt Devils wouldn't work though.

Welcome Duck. Here’s your 350 parts guy @shadetree How’s the hunting up your way Duck? I haven’t been yet. Looks like it might be lot better than last year.

Welcome to the forum.

Welcome aboard!

Welcome to the forum!

At least with the Outlaws your starting off with 1.5” of lug so it takes awhile to wear them out lol. I know with the last set of 31’s I ran they had about 2400km (1500 miles) on them when I sold them, they were still 75% or better.

Big welcome here

welcome duck !.

Welcome D'O'D !!!

I'd stay with a stock jug , so when a " oh no " happens , it is not as much of a waste of money to bring it back to life ---- put a load muffler on it and it will make your brain think your ragging it , LOL I have heard a theory that I have bought into , when you sleeve the jugs over size , you are making the aluminum part of the jug very thin , so it gets hotter , when you hit water it cools rapidly and causes problems like warpage that lead to a short life --- you might not ride water so you don't have that to worry about aspect

I’d stick with the 355 or look at other big bore options, I would not buy a 380 kit personally. @_Randolph_ has one you can ask him about it. To be be perfectly honest I like the size of the 355 bore, I might consider a small stroker if it were me, +4mm maybe, That would be 376cc at your current bore. Or maybe a 350D crank and run a custom rod on it to fit your current top end. That would be around 368cc, small bump but good bang for your buck.

Welcome!

Welcome to the site

still cleaning the engine cases, been taking way too long, between this engine, and helping my bud at his place ?, i've been really tired, hours all messed up, I did get a little cleaning done on the cases today, I hope to start putting the lower engine back together soon !.

I would stay with the 355 and just freshen it up. Its proven to be reliable for one... secondly, you'd gain nothing by bumping to 380 unless you swapped on a custom highly ported head with very large valves and matched intake/exhaust. A Honda head casting on a 380 isn't cost-effective and won't make any power except right on the very bottom... low RPMs where potential for increases in torque output is minimal to start with.

My 261 has an aluminum limiter cap on the high speed mixture screw only (low speed mixture not limited), with a hole in the center for the small adjustment screwdriver. I screwed an easy-out into the hole, yanked the cap off, turned the screw out 3/4 extra turn and snapped the limiter cap back on. Doesn't void the 2 year warranty when done that way. 🙂 I tune with a tach thats velcro'd onto the saw for 14,200 - 14,400 WOT. The saw is still bone stock. I mix Red oil at 32:1. Red oil costs more than Blue oil or Green oil so its gotta be that much better right? 🙂

First question. Do you need that very little extra power?

Hey all, got the word from some old forum friends this was the new happening place. Changed my name a little bit. Makes me easier to find on social media, mainly, insta. Maybe this new forum will give me some inspiration to finish the 380 on 30s. -TennesseeCountryboy

2014 Rancher service manual. Should be the same 2014 to current? https://drive.google.com/open?id=11l63hk2TaeIoWU3nKh1VpJVRMZYV5dRv

Shade, I missed your call. Had to go in a eat supper. We have spark!!!!!!!! It was the darn flywheel. I’ll try to get video of her running shortly. Thanks again for all the help! Pat

I still need to do away with the blocks on my adjustment screws so I can get a complete adjustment out of them. It's bad enough that I have to have a kit of different drivers to adjust all the different screws they use and then they block it so you can only do so much. They plug them on the carb 4 wheeler also so it's more work to do a 2 second adjustment. I guess the people in suits know more than the people in the field, like these junk - fire hazard gas cans we have now.

I thought the same thing when I bought the 562XP, everyone said it would be nothing but trouble. But I never once had an issue out of it in the 7 years I owned the saw and it ran better than any regular carbed saw I ever owned. Never had to mess with it (not that I could) just ran perfect every time, hot or cold.

yeah, that;s sort of a lot to sift thru from last log on depending how log its been the old set up, was more efficient or better IMO it only shows treads that had been added/added too, and NOT every single post made since

Welcome to the forum. If its flashing any codes I would write them down just for future reference if the reset doesn't work. The EPS light will have 2 different blink patterns when giving the code, a long blink and short. 2 long blinks and 1 short gives a code 21 (2x10= 20 +1 = 21). It will have a pause between each code it gives if there is more than one. You can retrieve them also by using a jumper the same as below but install the jumper, turn key on and read codes.

Telescopic hitch complete! I drilled 4 holes through the smaller box steel so I can tow the trailer at varying drawbar lengths depending on the terrain. The spring loaded bolt works great too, its quite tight which is the finish I wanted, reduced rattle etc.. Enough done for one day, we are off hunting tomorrow! Happy weekend everyone.

They both work but show all activity (showed me adding to members map). Every post in the same thread is listed separately so the list can get long.

@Fishfiles You should be fine, (I'd still cut them high) after all they are in a line. Sure sign they could have a fence line growed in. glad you fellas brought up these EPA issues, that's one main issue why i won't purchase a new saw. Kind of burns me as to what that mess has caused, mine requires 50:1 . I mix mine MUCH richer.

I got a 346 right after they discontinued them. Didn’t want “auto” anything on a chainsaw. Guy had two on the shelf. After running mine for a couple of months I called him and asked if he’d give me the same deal on his other one, and he said no. Waited another week and decided it was worth his marked price and he’d sold it during that week, Love the 346. Fish if you look around you might be able to find a nos unit sitting on the shelf at a small town Husky dealer

That was sitting idle on the ground for a few months, and yes, the back if it was used as a persuader at times haha! I know I was on about making the bed 3ft by 3ft but since dad's idea about the telescopic hitch, I can afford to leave it 4ft x 3ft. Its actually just shy of 4ft wide when you add the wheels aswell. And it fits very snuggly in my van which is even better. Hubs being fit, I made a spacer with 2x 20mm box tubes welded side by side, then welded a 6mm thick plate 100mm x 200mm onto them, the welded the lot onto the frame so I have room to get a nut on each bolt, it worked out better than expected.

Wilson thought me to look deep into the pics and see what is going on , I see a hatchet laying on the ground in the midst of the project , using it as a hammer ? LOL It looks bigger than I thought , carry on !!!

No doubt about that. I’m sure the military has GPS that is sub inch accurate by itself, they just limit the consumer GPS to 3 meters. That’s how it was in the 90’s, GPS wasn’t very accurate at all then the government just flicked a switch and boom, 3m accuracy.

Happy Thanksgiving from Upstate New York. Where's the egg nog?

Happy Thanksgiving to everyone. Prepare for turkey overload! 😬

Happy thanks giving!

Happy Thanksgiving everyone !.

Happy Thanksgiving all!

Welcome home bro!