Electronics

No blinking lights, shows "N" but just "clicks" at transmission as it tries to shift into gear. If I slowly roll the machine and shift it will pop into gear with engine off or running.   Steve

I actually was going to find your post and tag @Melatv and @retro and @AKATV since they seem to love electrical puzzles so much.   Sounds like you need a new TPS either way.  I have an extra carb with a good TPS if you want to try it, but if it measures out of spec you probably need one anyway.   I don't THINK that the TPS has anything to do with spark, as my machine ran fine while running with a TPS error, BUT then again, my TPS wasn't actually bad, it was just an error code.   We did have someone here who had a Hondamatic with a TPS code and it threw the machine into limp mode, so I guess it's possible that it could be causing spark issues.    

A recap and an update. My boss asked me to look at this thing because it was quitting when it got hot. Being in a hurry and needing it for hunting last fall, he asked me to just swap the coil out. I put a brand new OEM coil on it and got the same result.    I tested the stator using a peak voltage adapter in my ohm meter. The voltage adapter may have been bad, but it appeared that I had a bad reading on the stator. I replaced it with a new OEM unit. I got the same result with the new stator.    A post about the issue on the Foreman Facebook group got me in contact with jeepwm69. He had some electrical issue going on with a machine he was working on and was offering some suggestions. He sent me a known good ECU and voltage regulator.    I was optimistic that we would track the problem down with these parts to use for testing.    Keep in mind that this is ALWAYS heat related and the amount of time required for the quad to drop spark seemed directly dependent on ambient temperature. If it was a cold day, if might run for a half hour, or even much longer, before it would shut off. On a warm day, it could be as quickly as five or ten minutes. But once it cools back down, it will restart and run until it gets to a certain temp. And all of this can be accomplished with it just sitting there idling, riding it brings on the issue even quicker.   I brought the quad to the failure point, and once it shut off, I immediately switched to the ECU and regulator that jeepwm69 had sent me. Still no spark. I let it cool over night and restarted it the next day, bringing it to failure temp, then switched back to my original parts. Once again, no spark.    This machine is equipped with power steering, so that got me studying the wiring diagram. On a standard model, both stator wires from the pickup run directly to the ECU, but on a P/S model, one of the pickup wires runs to the P/S module first, which tells the module that the engine is running and to activate the power steering. Maybe the problem was hiding in that module.   In order to eliminate the power steering from the equation, I removed two wires from the P/S module plug, the incoming (blue/yellow) and the outgoing wire to the ECU (violet/white) and jumped them together. This should have eliminated the P/S module as a possible cause for my issue. In testing, if the two wires are not jumped together, the quad will not run, so I proceeded to run it up to temperature and once again it did drop spark. This should confirm that the issue does not lie in that module.    It was at this point that I purchased a set of back probes and a true peak voltage meter. My hopes were that my PV adapter that I used in conjunction with my ohm meter was providing bad info. I planned to use the back probes in the ECU and module connectors without unplugging them and monitoring it as it ran and failed.    My plans to do this were sidetracked as  after putting the P/S module plug make together, I could not get the machine to drop spark. At this point I questioned whether my issue may have just been a bad connection at that plug and by removing and reinstalling the wires, I had corrected the issue.    After about two weeks of starting and idling the quad, I could not get it to fail. I decided it was time to put everything back together, reinstalling all the plastic and the racks. This was apparently not meant to be, as I was shortly greeted by the same heat related issue.    My next step was running through the Honda troubleshooting for a no spark issue. It was then that I noticed that I had overlooked the gear position switch. But the way my luck was going, it would only be appropriate for this to be bad, since I would have to disassemble the entire rear of the quad again to remove the rear cover that I had already had off once to replace the stator. The switch is internal, so it could be directly impacted by heat, and it made all the sense in the world.   Since the switch does nothing more than take the circuit to ground when in the closed position, I decided to bypass the switch and ground the neutral position directly to the frame. The quad started, ran until it reached temperature and AGAIN lost spark. There is nothing left in this ignition system for me to replace or bypass, and have no idea where to look next.   For the record, this has a brand new spark plug. I did not replace the plug cap, but I did remove it when I had failure, and checked for spark directly at the coil wire.    Here is one thing that I have seen, but discounted because I can’t contemplate how it would affect the spark output. There is a TPS code flashing. It hasn’t been constant but it is USUALLY there.    While I have read that most TPS codes are usually the result of a connection issue, I decided to test it. My ohm meter shows 5k ohms in the closed position, but it does NOT climb when opening the throttle, so this tells me that there actually is a TPS issue. I also checked input voltage as directed by the Honda manual, and ended up with 5.02 volts, right in specifications.    I plan on replacing the TPS, but I really can’t see how this sensor is causing my spark issue, especially a heat related spark issue.    Any input would be greatly appreciated.                

It’s a 2002 Toyota RAV4, 4 cylinder auto. I put a new radiator in it and then immediately after it started blowing motor oil from where the transmission and motor bolt together. It’s front wheel drive, so it’s mounted sideways. I can see where oil is pooled up but not sure where it’s coming from. Maybe a sensor is leaking.

That's what I did with the wife's.   I actually had a 420 footshift with a cracked cylinder, so I had the wife's 420 cylinder bored and used it on that footshift, and bought a new 500 cylinder for the wife's.   I wonder what the 520 would do?   Looking at the chart @Melatv posted, the HP difference in the EFI 500 and 420 is negligible, but you're only actually going to a 475.  A 520 would be almost double the CC increase of the 500 cylinder.