retro

Finding a good muffler may be your biggest challenge. I've only seen OEM fuel filters for the TRX350s and they're about $20 each I think. An OEM air filter is probably your best option too. Tha aftermarket air filters that I've seen delete the OEM diffuser screen which leaves the foam element unsupported. NGK spark plug and either an OEM oil filter or a K&N KN-113. I'd check the cam chain wear while you're adjusting valves as well. Avoid tuneup kits (and any other parts you need) that aren't 100% OEM, cause they're cheap china junk otherwise. My own spring time plans call for swapping Rancher 420 OEM front disc brakes onto my '00 Rancher. I need to wash that bike too... 🙂 But during these winter months I'll be making FCU gizmos and tinkerin' with a 450 Foreman project in my spare time.

This is gonna be a fun build! Your combo might be really good for making torque. What will the bore & stroke and rod length be? Are you gonna run the same cam profiles? What is your dynamic compression ratio gonna be? I'm curious because the additional displacement will tame the cam down a bit. But other factors... Increased stroke & shorter rod length may alter piston deceleration/acceleration (dwell time) near BDC. Gross piston speed is increased and those two factors will alter the intake and exhaust events' port flow characteristics considerably too. Are there any cam options in the budget? :-)

Yeah pretty much! Turkey is traditional, hams are popular along with all the trimmings. A feast actually and every year its different. But the highlight for me are the variety of pies! :-)

Just another day to me. However I do like the eats! Especially pies and desserts!

Great to see ya again LBZ!

Sweet deal on a nice 300! I like Tan too.

Was 26 F an hour before dawn when I got up this morning. Forecasters sayin' a possible 8-12 inches of snow tonight/tomorrow. But it looks like its passing by too far south to be that much.

Looks like we have our first Tutorial candidate. Thanks @toodeep!

Probably not very rugged terrain there? Mine didn't last very long in the tough stuff I ride on. The rears held up a little bit better than the fronts, but still wore too fast to suit me... the ride was cushy soft I remember liking that.... but one front ended up with three plugs in it and the other front had one plug in it when I finally dumped them. Never again... Dirt Devils are cheaper than Mudlites too. If I were in mud all the time the Dirt Devils wouldn't work though.

Welcome Duck! Good to see ya again! You'll have to show us your 300 sometime...:-)

Those behaviors weren't intended so that means my links didn't work. Y'all gonna have to spend 2 minutes just once and make your own. :-)

I would stay with the 355 and just freshen it up. Its proven to be reliable for one... secondly, you'd gain nothing by bumping to 380 unless you swapped on a custom highly ported head with very large valves and matched intake/exhaust. A Honda head casting on a 380 isn't cost-effective and won't make any power except right on the very bottom... low RPMs where potential for increases in torque output is minimal to start with.

Thanks for keeping us updated Pat! Congrats ya fixed it!

I buy cheap general purpose tires. As long as they are a decent name brand, measure true to advertised height, clean out decent in shallow red clay mud and don't puncture easy I'll look at 'em. I ride in all sorts of terrain, some pretty steep and irregular, lots of woods riding where no trails exist, lots of sharp rocks in places and a bit of hard-pack clay/sand/gravel roads. I've tried a few cheap brands over he years, some I hated (Mudlites) some I liked (Dirt Devils). The Mudlites were garbage on my 450 Foreman, stock tires were just as good or better and lasted longer. Since my first experience with Dirt Devils was good those are what I've been shopping for most often. They're cheap!

My 261 has an aluminum limiter cap on the high speed mixture screw only (low speed mixture not limited), with a hole in the center for the small adjustment screwdriver. I screwed an easy-out into the hole, yanked the cap off, turned the screw out 3/4 extra turn and snapped the limiter cap back on. Doesn't void the 2 year warranty when done that way. 🙂 I tune with a tach thats velcro'd onto the saw for 14,200 - 14,400 WOT. The saw is still bone stock. I mix Red oil at 32:1. Red oil costs more than Blue oil or Green oil so its gotta be that much better right? 🙂

I just added "Unread Since Last Visit" and "Unread Last Two Days" to the Activity menu. Will someone please test those for me?

Welcome JDP!

I zoomed in then right-clicked on the location where I want my marker to move to and chose "Edit Location". A popup asked if I'm sure then moved the marker. I am using a laptop so it might work differently on a phone. EDIT: Mine is accurate to within a few miles. 🙂

The EPA is the reason why saw manufacturers specify 50:1 ratio premix. For many years the same saw models sold in the US and Canada were specified to run 32:1 in Europe and most other overseas countries/regions. Some countries still do not require 50:1 and manufacturers still say 32:1 for models sold in those countries. So 50:1 is a govcorp scam. A 15,000 RPM 2 stroke requires high quality ashless 32:1 oil for maximum life.

Don't forget to buy ya some good Red syn oil and mix it at 32:1 (4 ounces per gallon non-ethanol gas), for your new saw while you're there. We need pics too... don't forget.

We can add other optional fields in Profiles too. For instance: Hobbies Member Titles are part of the software already, but they are disabled because they haven't been tested yet.

I figured the member Location thing out. Go to your profile >> edit profile, you'll see Location above the About me box. Gonna test Members Map now...

Nothing works faster or better in the woods than a 2-in1, IMO. They're dummy-proof.

I got no idea why they left location out of profiles. I miss them too, and I am one who never provides my exact location. 🙂

I'll look for a plugin for that.