Engine - Drivetrain

I've been told by the repair guys that a flaw in the early 450's caused air to get in between the glass pieces which sandwich the liquid crystal, part of the screen fails when this happens. It looks like black dots or the lower half of the screen appears like a gray mountain range.  However, when the polarizing screens are sun damaged and the screen color changes or prevents function; the LCD glass plates may still be fine. If you have or know anyone with a screen from this model (working or not, as long as it's all the same color) I'd be interested in it! If you can help or have a lead where I might locate one of these please let me know.

I was told that the shift pattern was 1st gear down with neutral between 1st and second gear, as you lift into second. It sounds like you are saying that neutral is the bottom and all gears are up from there? If that is how it is supposed to work, that it is working normally. Do you know this for certain? All the Honda motorcycles I've ever known of were as I've described. If this is different that would be great news!

First gear should be between neutral and second.   Are you having to hit the shifter twice to go from second to neutral?   Don’t mean to stay for obvious, but trying to ascertain if there is a click from neutral to first and then I second click to second  or if it goes straight to second….   Or is there a position for first but it doesn’t pull in first?

I dropped two ECU’s and a voltage regulator in the mail earlier today. Hopefully you will have them by the end of the week to use testing 

I didn't try to start it before I tore it down.  Guy I bought it from said it didn't pull, and already had the oil tank etc removed.    I did reuse the cam and tensioner.   Engine ran great after top end, rebuilt crank, new timing and oil pump chains.   That said, I either have oil pump or Hondamatic issues, because once I got good and hot (miles from home) the Hondamatic started racheting noises and didn't want to pull.  When the machine cooled down I rode it home without issues.  Luckily I had an extra engine on hand, which is my current "when I have time" project.    Keep in mind that like a 2007 Rubicon rear fender might be $300, a 2014 Rubicon rear fender is $157.   Different years had different part numbers, with the difference usually only being the sticker on the fender.   For example, a left side cover for a 2007 Foreman was over $100.  A left side cover for a 2008 Foreman was $29.   That's what you gotta look into.  Different parts will fit your machine, and nosing around is the only way to see if a different cheaper part will fit. 2014 and 2008 Rubicon fenders etc will be the cheapest for fenders for whatever reason.   But yeah, let's get it running first.