Brakes - Suspension - Steering

So you aren't getting any peak voltage at the Black/yellow coil wire?     Try reversing the polarity of the Peak Voltage Adapter leads between Black/yellow and ground on the coil (positive PVA lead on Black/yellow, negative PVA lead on ground) and see if you get any peak voltage?   Your multimeter should be dialed to DC volts mode, since the PVA uses a diode to capture 1/2 waves of the CKP sensor AC sine wave voltage and stores those 1/2 waves (now rectified DC rather than AC voltage) in a capacitor inside the PVA.

AKATV, can I get your contact info got a couple meters I need repaired. Thanks 

So.... what I'm saying is your gear position switch is fine, else the neutral light would not light up on the display and the starter would not work when you press the starter button.   Your no spark issue is a head scratcher for sure!

If I'm following you right, the two green wires in the ECU connector are direct to frame grounds, so no voltage is possible on those unless/until the ECU is plugged in and key is on. You can measure the DC volts present on those two green ECU wires after unbolting them from the frame but that's not advised because ECUs are expensive, delicate & fragile gizmos. Seems like they can fry if ya just cuss at them one too many times.....   While the Green/red neutral switch to ground wire completes the circuit for the neutral light and the N indicator on the dash, as well as provides the ECU with a neutral gear signal and on most Hondas completes the circuit for the starter solenoid, so the voltage present that overwhelms the multimeter resistance mode is being provided by the dash display. If there were no voltage on the Green/red (in neutral with the key on) the neutral light would not have lit up in your video. You can find out how many volts are on that Green/red gear position switch wire by unplugging the switch and probing from the Green/red to ground in DC volts mode, with the key on.   Multimeters cannot handle voltage while in any resistance or continuity modes. If voltage is sufficient the meter will fry while in resistance mode. That's a well known fact... That's why multimeter instructions always remind the user to use AC volts mode on high range when probing an unknown circuit. Then drop to DC volts mode to insure that no voltage is present before resuming testing in other modes.   EDIT: Just to add info on why multimeters cannot function in modes other than Volts or Amps in live circuits, the battery in the multimeter is used to provide voltage for measuring resistance, capacitance, inductance etc. modes in a closed circuit to the probes. If your meter has a 9 volt battery in it then it sends 9 volts through the measuring probes.... if it has two 1.5 volt batteries in it then it sends 3 volts through the measuring probes.   One or two 1.5 volt batteries powering multimeters are becoming more common nowadays - because many modern sensitive electronic chips will fry if they receive more than 1.5v or oftentimes more than 3 volts while being measured - 9 volt meters are obsolete. If you introduce external voltage while measuring you can fry stuff.... the multimeter as well....

Yes for sure Ken, anything above the Detroit metro area is a good place to visit and live......